Zzyzx and Kelbaker Road

May 5, 2023

Before breakfast, I wandered around the south end of the property, mostly to take some photographs of the abandoned resort buildings. I was feeling an apocalyptic Camp Crystal Lake vibe, and wanted to be able to put together some sort of photo essay once I returned home. I saw a few smallish birds that I wasn’t able to identify (probable Yellow-rumped Warbler and Lesser Goldfinch, plus one of the Empidonax flycatchers). In this area, Honey Mesquite, Alkali Weed, Athel Tamarisk, and Mesquite Mistletoe are growing, along with ornamental Date Palm and Mexican Fan Palm

After packing my lunch for the day ahead, I had a sighting that was both fantastic and frustrating. I was chatting with some students near the patio, when a Calypte hummingbird bird flew up within about 2 feet of me. It was literally so close that I could have reached out and touched it. However, in the few seconds I had to view this female bird, I wasn’t able to get enough of a sense of it to identify it to species, although I suspect it was Costa’s. (Just like what happened the previous evening, although this time the bird was much closer and I had a longer time to view her). Still, a fun sighting.

Before we left the DSC, I wandered by Lake Tuendae, where I saw several Western Mosquitofish, but no sign of the endangered Tui Chub that live here. 

On our way to Kelso, we first stopped at the Mojave sign at the start of Kelbaker Road, for our traditional group photo. A variety of insects and plants were seen here, although I am still in the process of trying to identify some of them. I do have positive ID for Stenammine Ant (V. Pergandei) and a Californicusgroup Harvester Ant (possibly maricopa). One of my students found an American Ground Mantis, and I found a lovely, large spider that I think is a Syspira Prowling Spider, and an Alkali Grasshopper. I also found a very pretty little Potter Wasp, and an adorable Broad-nosed Weevil. Burrobush grows in abundance at this end of Kelbaker Road, along with some Atriplex Saltbushes

We had more fun in store before arriving at Kelso. As we drove, of course we scanned the road and surrounding desert for any signs of wildlife. I caught a glimpse of a Phainopepla in flight, as we drove past in the van. My impression was black with white flashes on the wings, and this is the most likely suspect. After a few minutes, when we hadn’t seen much of anything else yet, I mused aloud that the best case scenario right now would be for us to see the lead van pulled to the side of the road, because they’d spotted a tortoise. (Since tortoises move slowly, it would be a good bet that we’d be able to see it when we arrived a few minutes later). 

Within 5 minutes, we watched as the van in front of us pulled quickly to one side of the road, and as we pulled in behind them, there was no question why they had stopped: a gorgeous, medium-sized Agassiz’s Desert Tortoise hunkered down along the side of the road. What a fantastic find, especially so early on our first full day in the desert! Our spirits and expectations were buoyed by this amazing sighting. (For what it’s worth, this was the first animal I predicted/manifested on this trip . . . but it wouldn’t be the last. There was a kind of magical vibe throughout the weekend. Seriously). 

While my students observed the tortoise, I did take photographs of some of the local vegetation and other wildlife. A Northern Raven flew overhead (we would see them consistently just about everywhere we went on this trip). There were loads of gorgeous wildflowers – more than I remember seeing last year – including Mojave Woodyaster, Desert Chicory, Desert Dandelion, Threadleaf Groundsel, and Wallace’s Woollydaisy. Found on flowers: Leafcutter Bee and Ornate Checkered Beetle.

A bit further down the road, the lead van pulled off the road again, this time for a Coachwhip – a new species for me, and such a pretty snake! Plants seen at this stop included Spiny Senna, Hopsage, the intriguingly-named Devil’s Spineflower, Littleleaf Rhatany, and Mojave Yucca

We’d already had an amazing day, and we hadn’t even made it to Kelso Dunes yet! 


Species List

Western Mosquitofish (Gambusia affinis), Stenammine Ant (Veromessor pergandei), Maricopa Harvester Ant (Pogonomyrmex sp, maybe maricopa), American Ground Mantis (Litaneutria sp.), Alkali Grasshopper (Anconia integra), Prowling Spider (Syspira sp.), Broad-nosed Weevil (Ophryastes geminatus), Agassiz’s Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizii), Leafcutter Bee (Megachiloides sp.), Ornate Checkered Beetle (Trichodes ornatus), Coachwhip (Masticophis flagellum), Date Palm (Phoenix dactylifera), Honey Mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa), Mexican Fan Palm (Washingtonia robusta), Mesquite Mistletoe (Phoradendron californicum), Alkali Weed (Cressa truxillensis), Athel Tamarisk (Tamarix aphylla), Saltcedar (Tamarix ramosissima), Fourwing Saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Cattle Saltbush (Atriplex polycarpa), Burrobush (Ambrosia dumosa), Mojave Woodyaster (Xylorhiza tortifolia), Fremont’s Pincushion (Chaenactis fremontii), Desert Dandelion (Malacothrix glabrata), Woolly Brickellia (Brickellia incana), Joshua Tree (Yucca brevifolia), Rayless Goldenhead (Acamptopappus sphaerocephalus), Desert Chicory (Rafinesquia neomexicana), Threadleaf Groundsel (Senecio flaccidus), Wallace’s Woollydaisy (Eriophyllum wallacei), Bearded Cryptantha (Cryptantha barbigera), Littleleaf Rhatany (Krameria erecta), Desert Pincushion (Chaenactis stevioides), Mojave Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Button Brittlebush (Encelia frutescens), Creosote Bush (Larrea tridentata), Devil’s Spineflower (Chorizanthe rigida), Hopsage (Grayia spinosa), Spiny Senna (Senna armata), Browneyes (Chylismia claviformis), Anna’s or Costa’s Hummingbird (Calypte sp.), Phainopepla (Phainopepla nitens)


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